In Between Bites
I visited new Spanish cities in between familiar places each sending me home with a new taste or experience that broadened my view of Spain, the world and myself. In Segovia, after I surprised myself by enjoying the self-guided castle tour at Alcazar de Segovia, I took in local flavors at Asador Maribel where the dishes were flavorful, the staff charming and roasting Conchinillo Asado (roast suckling pig) was on full display front of house. I’ve been lukewarm on castle tours my whole life for some reason and I was glad that an open mind pulled me into this one. It’s said to be Walt Disney’s inspiration for the castle in Snow White and to walk through its rooms and corridors does take one back in time. Perhaps the biggest lesson I learned – tactical as it may be – is small town train stations only have so many taxis out front – so getting outside in that line first is prudent. It would be a lesson that would serve me well as I landed at Vittoria airport in Basque country a week or so later needing every minute I had between drop down and boarding time to catch an earlier train to San Sebastian. It worked!
Toledo was hard not to be enchanted by – steady rain showers and slippery cobblestone streets aside - one gets the sense the city sources its power up from the hill that it’s no doubt been envied throughout the centuries for having occupied. It feels tall, imposing and stately even when you’re inside its walls. And perhaps that’s why I was overcome by such moving contemplative peace in the quiet and modest chapel at Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz. Life slowed down in the few minutes that I found myself standing there. When I finally stepped away the palpable energy of Toledo seemed to follow me as I made my way through the city’s points of interest and popped in and out of boutiques. My favorite of which was an unassuming gallery that belonged to a local artist and his mother. If my circumstances were different, I know I would have splurged on an oil painting of a pastel saturated Toledo landscape that still stirs me but only from rough and fading memory today.
No recount of a day trip in Spain is complete without mention of a meal. It is worth noting that Taberna el Botero in Toledo was a culinary highlight on my trip to Spain overall. Between sips of Vermouth and red wine, I took in the soundbites of life that surrounded me. The place was full of energy and anything but touristy. At the waiter’s recommendation I took the Codfish Charcoal with Dill Aioli and Mojo Picon Sauce and Botero’s Carcamusa with Pork Cheeks. I can still taste both dishes. The flavors exploding off these, excuse the pretense here, divine textures and taste ensembles that you just don’t get outside of Spain.
What really made the meal memorable though and one that spreads a huge smile across my face every time I think about it was what happened between bites over a chance encounter with a devilishly cute Spaniard named Fabio. Even though we spoke different languages and I understood him poorly and barely– he spoke so fast! - I knew we had made a connection. How hard we think it is sometimes to connect with one another when our hearts are already built for that very thing! It was clear to me that day that our interconnectedness isn’t just forged and set by what we say and hear but by how we make each other feel. Fabio helped me see that the simple act of spreading joy can be just as an effective way to communicate as words especially and only if our hearts are curious and open.
And Fabio? Fabio’s 3 years old.
